Keep It Simple, If You Want To!
A couple of years ago, I did a behavior consultation for a young hound mix I’ll call “Tilly.”
As behavior issues go, her main problem was fairly benign. She didn’t bite family members, lunge at other dogs, or destroy the house when her owner was gone. Rather, she had a tendency to get excited – very, VERY excited – whenever the doorbell rang, or someone new entered the house. Putting on her leash for a walk or car ride, or having family members arrive home, was also guaranteed to set off a frenzy of loud, persistent barking that didn’t stop until everyone was settled again.
Her owners had two school-age children, so having people in and out of their home was a daily occurrence… along with conversations at the front door, unexpected arrivals through the garage, and pick-ups and drop-offs of friends, homework, and lunch boxes.
All accompanied by piercing barks, and a 40-lb dog racing wildly back and forth with excitement.
Scolding, time outs, leash corrections, and two separate bark collars had failed to put any significant dent in the problem, and the entire family was frustrated. Her owners were nice people, and they loved Tilly. They just wanted to be able to go about their daily lives in peace.
When I arrived at the house, Tilly was friendly towards me with no signs of anxiety or aggression – all wagging tail, wiggly body, and eager sniffing of my shoes and clothing. I can also confirm that she was LOUD!
She took treats happily when I offered them, and was able to relax and stop barking within a minute or two once I had sat down and everything was calm. Overall, a friendly and well-adjusted dog… she just had an unfortunate (from a human perspective!) habit of announcing her excitement to the entire neighborhood at the top of her lungs every time someone came in.
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As a behavior professional, I love the process of training. And so, it’s often tempting in cases like this to jump in and start designing a fancy training plan to address the unwanted behavior.
For example – we could teach Tilly to station herself on a mat, hold her position there even with really difficult distractions, and train the doorbell sound as a cue for this new behavior! Which would be a perfectly reasonable solution. It would also look quite impressive, as a finished project – a beautifully trained dog, holding a quiet stay on a designated spot until released.
Or, we could train her to run to her crate at the sound of footsteps on the front porch. Her owner could give her a frozen Kong and shut the door, to keep her contained and occupied while visitors came and went. This would still require a certain investment of time and effort, especially since she wasn’t already crate-trained, but would likely be a shorter process.
But based on what I had observed so far about Tilly during our visit, I had a hunch that something simpler might work.
First, I put the question to her owner. Did she want a trained dog who would wait nicely in a particular spot while guests came in and out? Or did she want a “quick and dirty” solution to stop the barking?
Different owners have different goals, so it’s always important to ask! There’s nothing wrong with going through one of the training plans I mentioned above – both would be great potential solutions, for some families.
Tilly’s owner said that she just wanted the barking to stop. She didn’t care if the finished product looked impressive, and as a busy working mom, she had very little time or energy to spare for training the dog.
So, this is what we did:
As an experiment, I asked Tilly’s owner to grab a handful of her regular dinner kibble. Then I went outside and rang the doorbell, and she tossed the kibble on the floor. I heard a few barks from inside the house, but they quickly stopped.
The door opened, and I walked into the foyer. Tilly, having finished snarfing up every last morsel from the kitchen floor, came trotting happily down the hall and barked a few more times. Her owner tossed another handful of kibble, and her nose went into action again. All was quiet. We sat back down at the dining room table.
Tilly finished the second round of snacks, wandered over for a few quick pats, and then stretched out on the floor for a nap.
Her owner was ecstatic.
“That’s the best she’s ever done, with the doorbell ringing! She hardly barked at all!”
Together, we made a plan. She would put some kibble in several Tupperware containers and stash them in different rooms in the house, so that there would always be one nearby no matter where she happened to be when someone arrived. At the sound of the doorbell, she would call for Tilly and toss a handful of kibble on the floor for her, then go and answer the door. If Tilly finished eating before the visitor had left or sat down, she would repeat the process with another handful.
By that time, Tilly would have calmed down enough to greet the person politely without barking, and then go about her business.
Before leaving, I double-checked with the owner that she didn’t want to work on any kind of training plan with Tilly for the long term. No, she assured me – this was great! She happily paid my consultation fee, and I left.
A couple of weeks later, I received an email update from Tilly’s owner. Things were going wonderfully! They’d had several opportunities to try out our new plan, including pizza deliveries and babysitter arrivals. Her husband had also been parking on the street after work and ringing the bell to come in, to provide some additional practice. Tilly was now looking expectantly to her owner for treats, rather than barking and charging the door when she heard someone arriving.
Overall, the family was very pleased and felt that this was going to be a workable strategy for them going forward.
A good day’s work, all around. 😊
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Now, don’t get me wrong! Not every behavior issue can be resolved this easily. In many ways, Tilly was the exception – not the rule. There were a few specific reasons that this plan worked so well for her.
First, she wasn’t fearful or aggressive towards strangers, just excited. Dogs with underlying emotional issues to work through generally require a more nuanced behavior modification plan. Secondly, she was highly food-driven! Because of this, even relatively “boring” food like her regular kibble was effective at holding her attention while exciting things were happening.
And finally, she was able to calm down fairly quickly once visitors were in the house and settled – it was just the initial excitement of having someone at the door that was hard for her to manage. So, we just needed to keep her quiet and focused on some other activity for 2-3 minutes at a time. A dog who had a more difficult time settling would likely have needed some additional work to help her learn to relax in the presence of visitors.
But if simple works? Don’t be afraid to go the easy route!
Tilly’s consult was one of the easiest cases I’ve ever had, and also one of my favorites. It stands out for me as a reminder that you don’t always need a meticulous training plan with lots of fancy new skills and diligent practice sessions to change behavior.
And that ultimately, it’s the client who decides what “problem solved!” looks like for them.
14 thoughts on “Keep It Simple, If You Want To!”
Excellent article! Reminds trainers to keep it simple, silly.
We all need a reminder, every now and then! 🙂
I love your blog! And podcasts! Thank you! I found it after having a severely behaviorally and physically challenged dog who left us doubting our abilities— after a lifetime of dog ownership and very helpful local consultants—and your blog gave us the courage we needed and great practical guidance as we brought home a new rescue puppy last year.
You’re very welcome! I’m glad you’re enjoying them, and that your new rescue pup is doing well so far. 🙂
We are having this very challenge going on when visitors come to our home. Even after they are invited in our boy continues to bark throughout the visit, making it difficult to have people over…what do you suggest for a dog that has a more difficult time settling down after the initial excitement? We will try the food during the initial phase. I appreciate any help you can give us…he is a great dog in other situations outside of the home…on walks he does not react to humans or other animals and he goes to a puppy daycare for 4 hours a couple times a week to help with mental stimulation and socialization. He is a 10 month old Aussie.
For dogs who have a hard time settling down after the initial introduction phase, my favorite go-to option is to give a special puzzle toy or long-lasting chew to help keep them busy – something like a frozen Kong stuffed with peanut butter, or a bully stick or cow ear. That way, they have a project to work on for the next 30 minutes or so. If they’re busy gnawing on their special treat, they aren’t barking or bugging visitors.
Thanks for the quick response! Will give it a try…keeping fingers crossed. He is such a smart pup with this being the only thing so far we have been stumped on. Tough feeling like we can’t have people over because he is so loud no one can have a good time. Thanks again for the advice. Much appreciated.
Both of our dogs get too excited when visitors come in, so we put them in a closed room before we answer the door and leave them there for fifteen or twenty minutes. Before we let them out, we ask our visitors to ignore them—no eye contact, no petting, no talking to them, absolutely no interaction until they’re completely calm. The dogs will rush out and try to engage the strangers (or not-so-strangers–no matter how many times our friends or family come, it’s the same old story), but when there’s no response, they trot off and find something else to do. Eventually Blue may offer his ball, hoping for a game of catch, or Jazz will ask to be petted, but it’s all low-key and pleasant.
Our problem is the barking continues even when the visitors don’t engage. In fact the barking continues and escalates with no eye contact and no interaction…. seems to make him more leery of them. He just can’t seem to settle himself.
I think that routine sounds perfect. Keeping them separated until the initial excitement has passed, and then encouraging visitors to keep things calm and low-key, can be really helpful for some dogs. 🙂
A perfect topic for our household, too. We have five dogs in the house. Debarker in our house is a Chihuahua, probably about 5 years old. How does this plan change in a multi dog household?
Ha! That’s the million-dollar question, isn’t it? Multi-dog households are definitely more complex.
If your dogs aren’t snarky with each other over food, you could still use the same plan – you’ll just have a doggy feeding frenzy. 🙂 But if they are, you’ll need to be a bit more creative.
You might be able to teach the barker to run to a different room, and then use a baby gate to block him off from the other dogs so you can toss food, or give a puzzle toy or chew treat of some kind to keep him busy. Or keep all of the dogs in a separate room with the door closed until everyone is inside and settled – then let them out and see if they can be calmer. OR, if your noisy pup likes toys, try tossing a toy for him when the doorbell rings – some dogs are happy to be quiet, as long as they have something in their mouth.
Three years ago I adopted a 5 y/o, N/M, Kerry Blue Terrier. He was returned to the breeder, the owners claimed he was aggressive.
I’ve had Kerries for 35 years, fostered ~200 dogs over the past 14 years and I dog-sit. I’ve never experienced this behavior before and just can’t figure out how to deal with it to help both of us. (Did take him to a recommended trainer but she didn’t seem to “get” what I was telling her and knew little more than I about training.)
When someone (with or w/out dog/s) arrives, he barks, jumps up and down at the gate to the front hallway, puts his paws on the gate and hops, runs around and grabs a toy and continues the running around and hopping. It’s not aggression – just over-the-top excitement he cannot self-regulate.
I’ve tried a spray water bottle (works for a nanosecond); crating him in another room with a towel over door and windows and kibble thrown in the crate (he’s not released until he settles down – I give him more treats and profuse praise for “good settle” – this can take 15-20 minutes); having guests with me stand in the hallway with our backs to him – doesn’t work; throwing a soda can with rocks in it – breaks the activity a bit longer than the spray bottle, but nothing is a solution for the behavior.
Car rides (seldom now) are also difficult. (He’s harnessed and the seatbelt is threaded through the harness.) He manages to hop around and get himself tangled up in the seatbelt, barking the entire time. Dog walks – same over-excitement at other people with dogs, people on bicycles or skateboards, runners (assume that triggers the prey-drive instinct). I’ll cross the street, do repeated U-turns, have him sit/stay with his back to the people/dogs and “watch me” – somewhat effective.
I contacted a local behaviorist who’s backed up for months so she suggested I look at “drive capping.” That somehow doesn’t seem to quite fit with what’s going on with him.
I have the previous owners’ vet’s chart notes which show repeated complaints of aggressiveness. The vet recommended a trainer but don’t know if the owners accompanied him to training or not. Then, I suspect at the owners’ insistence, the vet prescribed Alprazolam which can have long-lasting side effects on the brain.
After he arrived here from NY, I asked my long-time vet to test his thyroid levels and he is hypothyroid so he’s on Levothyroxing 0.3mg/twice daily. It’s had no impact on the over-excitedness.
I simply do not know what to do next to help him as well as me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The kibble scatter has worked miracles— our dog is generally low energy, but will briefly leap and get excited, especially with her favorite people. The kibble scatter has worked completely. Inside and on walks. Her dog walker was amazed as she’s always gotten the leaping greeting.
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